Why I Have Stopped Eating Farmed Salmon . . .

2693572_345c6ebd

As a dedicated (my wife would say “fanatic”) flyfisherman, I love to fish and I also enjoy eating fish.  To me there is nothing better than fresh or saltwater fish poached, pan-fried, or even “sashimi style” (a taste acquired many years ago living on the Pacific Coast of California).  And fish is definitely on the top of the list for healthy foods, high in essential oils (omega-3 as an example), low in saturated fat, high in protein and low in calories – the perfect healthy diet food. And it tastes great.

And my favourite fish is salmon.  I have caught hundreds of wild salmon in my life and not enjoy respect and admire them for their migration abilities and perseverance during spawning season, but also for their fighting ability when caught on a flyrod.  And fresh salmon tastes great.

I must mention here that I practice “catch and release” fishing as a sport, not for food, and so most of my fish is purchased from the supermarket or the farmers’ markets in our area.  When I lived closer to the ocean we would go down to the wharf and by fresh fish and other seafood straight off the fishing boats.

But most days my fish comes from the supermarket. And herein lies my problem!

The majority of salmon sold in supermarkets, and shipped around the world frozen or in story_salmon_farm_2007-05-19_131006smoked form, comes from salmon farms in the estuaries and bays of cold water places like Scotland, Norway, Chile, Canada and the US coast. Today, salmon consumption worldwide is around  2 million tonnes, and less than 10% of consumed salmon are wild, the other 90% farmed):

Here’s the “logic” that started the explosion of salmon farming.

If more people eat farmed salmon, the reasoning went, then that would help protect wild salmon populations.

Unfortunately, that hasn’t exactly panned out. Let me share with you what most people don’t know (I think you will look at salmon in the supermarket very differently after this insight).

First some facts (real facts are hard to find since the salmon farming lobby is so well-funded by the big corporations that most of the articles on the internet are highly skewed towards the positive attributes and not the collateral damages).

  • The growth of salmon farms over the past 30 years has been explosive. Nearly 2 millionsalmon farm growth tons of salmon are consumed globally, approx. 90% of which are now farm raised. Demand for fish is expected to double by 2040.
  • It takes 2.5 to 4 pounds of fish (usually ground up sardines, anchovies, mackerel or herring) made into pellets to produce one pound of salmon. This means, environmentalists argue, that salmon farming contributes to rather than helps the overfishing problem. People in the salmon industry counter it takes less feed to produce a pound of salmon than a pound of pork, beef or chicken.
  • Fish farm pellets are high in dioxins that sometimes enter the food chain. The pellets and fecal waste from salmon farms have been blamed for causing algae blooms which suck oxygen from the water, creating “dead zones” that harm local marine ecosystems and the shellfish industry. Chemicals used to battle the sea lice have killed other small creatures that wild fish rely on for food. Diseases are sometimes passed from farmed salmon to wild fish. Health issues for both people and marine ecosystems have been raised about the artificial dyes and pigments used to make the salmon meat pink.
  • In addition to the toxic chemicals and food additives used by salmon farms, the food itself causes environmental pollution. In 1995, the world’s largest international poultry and fish feed manufacturer, Nutreco, reported a link between farmed salmon wastes, high in nitrogen and phosphorus because of their artificial nature, and the loss of oxygen in adjacent waters (eutrophication). Other studies have found that chemicals and pollutants inherent in salmon feed contaminate both the salmon themselves and the ocean floor beneath their pens.
  • The costs of fishmeal and fish oil, together with mounting environmental problems, are leading some industrial salmon farms to use less wild caught fish for food and seek more plentiful, cheaper alternatives. Under study or in current use are various types of vegetable proteins and animal byproducts, including chicken feathers and slaughter waste. Norwegian scientists are even experimenting with genetically modified (GM) soy products for salmon feed, and experts say it is only a matter of time before GM soy and GM-corn are part of a farmed salmon’s diet.
  • Salmon farms foul the sea around the pens and spread disease and lice to wild salmon. The lice thrive among the tightly packed fish in the pens. Wild salmon pick up the lice when they pass by the pens or come into contact with escaped farm salmon. The lice can kill by feeding on the salmon’s flesh. In places where fish farming is done, the number of wild salmon have declined at alarming rates and may of those that survive are covered by lice.
  • Stock salmon that escape from fish pens are threatening wild salmon by taking over the rivers where they spawn and interbreeding with wild stocks, producing offspring less equipped for survival in the open oceans. On average between 200,000 and 650,000 farmed salmon escape every year from Norwegian farms. The figure is around 300,000 from Scottish farms. A storm in Norway in 1990 released about 4 million fish.
  • Ten to 35 percent of the salmon in Norwegian spawning grounds are farmed salmon. In some rivers the stock salmon outnumber wild salmon four to one. In Chile and Canada, escaped salmon are outcompeting local Pacific salmon and other wild fish for food and spreading diseases and lice to wild fish, them, causing declines in their numbers. In Alaska, salmon farming is banned to protect local wild populations of Pacific salmon.
  • Environmentalists would like to see farmed salmon raised in walled tanks so the don’t escape, or better yet, in land tanks.
  • Legal and regulatory efforts to improve fish farming practices in the United States has lead producers to go elsewhere where the industry is not regulated (what a great solution !!).
  • Some companies are experimenting with genetically-engineered  salmon with a modified gene that allows them to grow at a faster pace, up to 30 times greater than non-genetically-engineered salmon. They have added genes from eels and other animals to create this modified species. Scientists are not sure what would happen if genetically-engineered salmon escaped into the wild. And no one knows about the long-term health aspects to human consumption.  (Here comes “frankenfish!”)
  • What is also not known is that most of the salmon farms are not local business, but owned and controlled by five or six mega-global corporations with more of a focus on short-term profit than sustainability or environmental issues. 

I love salmon, but unless these unsustainable practices are shifted to a process that balances profit with concern for the environment, I predict that farmed salmon will flood the waters, wild salmon populations will decline, and the whole unsustainable mess will collapse.  In Chile in the mid-2000’s, a viral infection and parasite infection almost decimated the Chilean salmon farming industry, which at that time was number two in world production.  The future can be seen in the past.

So, I am giving up on eating farmed salmon, partly in protest, and partly for health reasons.  You might want to think long and hard about the food we find in our markets.  I am also hoping that this blog, and others like it, will reach enough people to cause an even larger movement to improve the industry so we can all enjoy fresh fish, both for dinner and for sport.  If we can’t alter the growing demand for salmon, then we can at least build a better business model that works for everyone.

Tight Lines . . .

(ps: I am certain I have left out some facts about salmon farming, so I would like to hear from others on this topic)

John R Childress

john@johnrchildress.com

About johnrchildress

John Childress is currently Visiting Professor in Strategy and Culture at IE Business School in Madrid and a pioneer in the field of strategy execution, culture change, executive leadership and organization effectiveness, author of several books and numerous articles on leadership, an effective public speaker and workshop facilitator for Boards and senior executive teams. In 1978 John co-founded The Senn-Delaney Leadership Consulting Group, the first international consulting firm to focus exclusively on culture change, leadership development and senior team alignment. Between 1978 and 2000 he served as its President and CEO and guided the international expansion of the company. His work with senior leadership teams has included companies in crisis (GPU Nuclear – owner of the Three Mile Island Nuclear Plants following the accident), deregulated industries (natural gas pipelines, telecommunications and the breakup of The Bell Telephone Companies), mergers and acquisitions and classic business turnaround scenarios with global organizations from the Fortune 500 and FTSE 250 ranks. He has designed and conducted consulting engagements in the US, UK, Europe, Middle East, Africa, China and Asia. Currently John is an independent advisor to CEO’s, Boards, management teams and organisations on strategy execution, corporate culture, leadership team effectiveness, business performance and executive development. John was born in the Cascade Mountains of Oregon and eventually moved to Carmel Highlands, California during most of his business career. John is a Phi Beta Kappa scholar with a BA degree (Magna cum Laude) from the University of California, a Masters Degree from Harvard University and was a PhD candidate at the University of Hawaii before deciding on a career as a business entrepreneur in the mid-70s. In 1968-69 he attended the American University of Beirut and it was there that his interest in cultures, leadership and group dynamics began to take shape. John Childress resides in London and the south of France with his family and is an avid flyfisherman, with recent trips to Alaska, the Amazon River, Tierra del Fuego, and Kamchatka in the far east of Russia. He is a trustee for Young Virtuosi, a foundation to support talented young musicians. You can reach John at john@johnrchildress.com or john.childress@theprincipiagroup.com
This entry was posted in ecosystems, flyfishing, John R Childress, John's views on the world, save the oceans and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to Why I Have Stopped Eating Farmed Salmon . . .

  1. Anonymous says:

    Well said John. The damage salmon farms do at the present time is huge and until they are regulated properly they will continue to do so. You didn’t mention that they have nearly wiped out the seatrout in both Scotland and Ireland. This is almost entirely due to the lice produced which cling to the seatrout smolt as they are migrating whose instinct is then to return to fresh water. The sea lice then fall off and again the seatrout try to migrate. The same thing happens and eventually the seatrout starve to death. No salmon farm should be allowed within 5 miles of estuarine waters for the sake of both migrating seatrout and salmon smolt. All the very best to you old mate. Mike Daunt

    Like

  2. John, you know far more about this subject than I ever will but I enjoyed reading Paul Greenberg’s ‘Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food’ ( http://www.amazon.com/Four-Fish-Future-Last-Wild/dp/014311946X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1361899906&sr=1-1&keywords=four+fish) and think you might too.

    Like

  3. Bill Collins says:

    John, I gave up anything but fresh, wild salmon years ago. Usually only eat what I catch. I told you not to eat raw salmon out of the rivers. Salmon needs to be frozen at least 24 hours to be eaten as sashimi. I hope all is well with you and your family. Bill

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s